Several devices that shouldn't be missed in the "lodging" of the hamster

November 26th, 2009 |

Author: Supplies // Pets, Livestock, and Wildlife // ArticlePros.com

The material that is sprinkled in the cage and the nest should include most of shavings for rodents (you can find in the zoo shops). Never use saw-dust for this purpose. Especially the shavings from softwood are very bad for the health. You can use also: small quantities of straw and hay, wadding for hamsters (not cotton) and paper handkerchief without any perfume. The sand for birds is very useful too – serves for cleaning the fur and toilet necessities. Especially dwarf hamsters are very happy if one- thirds part of the floor is strewn with sand. They are fond of rolling in it. The shavings and the sand should cover the floor and in case the rest levels of the cage at least 5 centimeters. The rest materials are scattered in small quantities all over the cage. The hamster gathers them and makes his furniture to his own taste. We have to take in mind that the materials of the nest and generally in the hamster cage must be easily breakable and soluble in water. Since the hamster works them mainly with the mouth it is possible to be swallowed also and the inappropriate materials which will cause to blocking and the death of the little pet. You have to be very careful especially with the wadding not to be synthetic. There has already known many cases of dead hamster babies and also of cut limbs because of synthetic wadding. The paper handkerchiefs are recommended (without any perfume), especially when there are cubs. The sleeping house must be made of wood or ceramics (clay). But the clay ones have to be without any varnishes since they cannot transfer the dampness from the breath and sweat outside. Be careful with the wooden houses – they must not be of pine-tree or other softwood (it is poisonous), as rodents like gnawing their furniture. With the plastic houses there is always some danger of injuring and in most of the cases they contain harmful substances.
The sizes of the house have to be about 20/15/15. Of course the holes have to be big enough so that a quite grown hamster with chubby cheeks to be able to get in and out of it. It is also possible to put two houses one on top of the other (bigger and smaller) and thereby the hamster will have a bigger possibility to hide himself and his food. Houses with movable roof are also very good – the check of the nest is easier with them. The bowl for food has to be made of heavy material in order to be stable and not
to overturn (for example stone or ceramics). Diameter of 507 centimetres is completely enough. Of course, if you already have more hamsters living together, the rack must be bigger or to have a separate one for every animal to prevent the quarrels. Since the
tine creatures love entering their rack and sit on it, it’s quite possible some of them to leave hungry because he didn’t succeed in attaining to the food. The bowl doesn’t have to be shallow but if the little fellow couldn’t climb to it, then it is too deep with sure.
Important!!! The rack must be situated directly on the floor of the cage or on some of the levels bit it must be stable otherwise it could fall down and injure the hamster.
With the water trough you have several possibilities. Of course you can put a small bowl with water but this is rather inappropriate because it is often used as a toilet, water the shavings, the hamster get wet (danger of cold), there are also cases
of drowned little hamsters in such utensils.
There are also special water troughs for rodents (with small ball on the hole). Hamster used to drink with them very fast. It has kinds of them that could be connected with the gratings of the crittertrail
too and other that are able to stick on the glass of the aquariums. With the last one exists the possibility they to fall down easily because the little rodent will try to climb to it. The best choice are the “wonder land” water troughs or similar. It is completely paneled, has a large bottom that makes it stable even when the tiny creatures are climbing to it. Also pay attention to the quality of the water you fill it (chlorine, copper, nitrates…). Values are different in the different regions. To avoid possible infections it is better the water to be boiled or filtered or completely to be changed for “water for rodents” (in the zoo shops) or baby water of “humana”, for example. Attention!!! Under no circumstances give him soda-water.
The so called “salt stone” is also very important. Since hamsters take only about 10% of their necessary salts with their mainly vegetarian nutrition in contrast to the carnivores. A clear sign for lack of salts is when the animals starts to lick your
finger or the objects in his cage – in such case you mist help him by all means. Such stones are offered in the shops. These ones with big concentration of calcium are inappropriate because it may lead to renal calculus.

Pamela Harison is the owner and editor of <a href="http://www.hamstercagesource.com">HamsterCagesource</a> where you can find both a huge variety of hamster cages and useful information about the breeding of different kinds of hamsters and rodents.